The Voyage of M.S. Explorer to Antarctica 17/11/06

In the morning we were to make our first trip ashore at Brown Bluff (63 degrees 32' south). Trips ahore always begin with a briefing beforehand. The 90 odd passengers (some extremely odd) are split into two groups, each alternately going ahead of the other, although this usually only amounts to a delay of 10 minutes for the second group. The zodiacs take 8 to 10 people. Prior to getting in the boat there is a 15 minute ceremony of dressing up warmly, donning our lifejackets, melting in the reception as we await our turn, washing our boots (so we don't bring any contamination with us) and 3 at a time trudging down the gangway. There is a 5 metre rule towards the wildlife; we must give them 5 metres distance, though if they come towards us, that's our luck. Coming back we clean our boots again on shore, don our life jackets and clean our boots again on deck. This would become commonplace and automatic, and any inconvenience was washed away by the thrill of the visits.

Brown Bluff, a narrow stretch of beach hemmed in by red cliffs is on the Antarctic Peninsula itself. Rubber boots came in handy as we had to step into the water getting out of the zodiac. All along the sealine, strangely shaped ice formations made nice posing points for the penguins of which again there were thousands. This time, however, we were up close and personal and observing the 5 metre rule was a challenge. The penguins themselves were mainly Adelie, though there were some Gentoo, I believe. The nests were constructed of small pebbles and it was common to see a penguin waddle by with a stone in his beak, depositing it by its mate. It was also common to see thievery, prostitution and any other devious measure they could come up with to get each others' stones. The penguin on the nest (it can be a male) cannot move too much, however, as the 1 or 2 eggs they warm are very susceptible to the cold. The idea of the stones is to keep the eggs away from any ice or snow.

In the afternoon we landed at Paulet Island (63 degrees 35' south). The sun was out and snow carpeted the space between penguin nests. The ruins of a small shack once used by stranded Norwegians is now the home for penguins. Further inland a large frozen lake (the result of volcanic activity) serves as a skating (or taboggin) rink for penguins, while Weddell seals along the shoreline act as a distraction for penguins. All in all this is kind of a Disneyland for penguins. Here the Adelie were again dominant, but other wildlife such as Blue-eyed Shags, Weddell Seals, Skuas and Sheathbill (or Shitbill given their diet, penguin pooh) Terns were abundant. The penguins walk around the seals who regard them with apathy to gaze at the sea in groups. They will only jump in after someone takes the lead. Weddell Seals eat krill, squid etc., but Leopard Seals might be in the bay and they have a penchant for penguins (they can get the wrappers off too! One was later seen flinging a hapless gentoo around to get at its meat). I got carried away with it all and was the last one back to the zodiac.

After all the rough and tumble of the previous days, the evening was calm and beautiful. Huge icebergs floated all around us while the ship placidly drove through the still water. The sun made a startling display of oranges, yellows and reds both in the sky and reflected on the sea, and, low though it was, it just kept shining. At 11.30, I could stand on the bow and enjoy the glorious spectacle.

(For what it's worth the music that springs to mind these days are predictably Vaughan Williams's 7th Symphony - his Antarctic Symphony - and Mendelssohn's Calm Sea and Prosperous Voyage, though moreso the Mendelssohn piece).