The Voyage of M.S. Explorer to Antarctica 18/11/06 - Part 2

Greater Spectacled Penguin

I was exhausted at breakfast and had to go back to bed for 40 minutes. Then instead of a lecture and in keeping with the morning's adventure, we watched a screening of "March of the Penguins". I noted Anna came in at one point, went "Pooh!", and walked out again. Then we had a briefing on our next destination, Cape Kinnes on Joinville Island (63 degrees 22' south).

Kinnes Cove, where we landed, was a stunning location. Craggy ice cliffs tore out of the rock into the bay. It was also the snowiest venue yet and if we didn't keep to the pathways trodden by our guides (and even when we did), we stood a good chance of sinking up to our thighs. The main wildlife here of course was Adelie penguins and seals. Rather than struggle with walking some of us took the example of the penguins and slid down a small embankment. Anna was not too pleased. If you create too many footmarks, that is too many tracks, you can interfere with the penguins routes to the sea.

To see a nesting place at some height we followed Adam up to a high outcrop. That was stunning enough, but then it was suggested we go the full way and top a nearby summit. Well, I had to do that, didn't I! It was a climb to prove how unfit I am, though once you are walking a trail single file you cannot stop or you hold up those behind, and you cannot forge ahead due to the person in front. Just when we surmounted one crest, another one appeared and the climb continued. Eventually though I made it and it was a breathtaking vision.

Coming down is always remarkably easy compared with the initial climb, but Christian worked on Adam sufficiently to get his permission to slide some of the way down (there were no penguins up this high, wise animals). A pure snowbank provided the perfect slope, though as I was one of the first the slide I took was not sufficiently hollowed by people to allow me to get too much speed. I ended up kicking myself forward towards the bottom.

Down near the shoreline, a very unhealthy Weddell Seal treated us to a display of vomitting. Nice, as Marc might say.

When we returned we had two bits of news: the Captain's Antarctic Welcome would be at 7, and we would be visiting Port Lockroy, a British post office, the next day, if we wanted to post any postcards.